It will be the opportunity of new bounces

Kate Moss Machine by Christian Salmon La Découverte, 149 pages, EUR 11.

This is almost twenty years Kate Moss on the front of the stage. The scandals barely affect the. It is each time more deeply rooted in our imagination. How to explain that a young girl from middle-class living in the suburbs of London, who did none of the criteria of the beauty of the manikin, has become the undisputed icon that it has become

Christian Salmon, the who, there are few, gave the keys to contemporary political discourse in "storytelling", explains putting the in the heart of four entangled revolutions which mark the recent period: in social history, the history of fashion, in the history of capitalism and history of subjectivity.

Kate Moss appears at the beginning of the 1990s under the objective of Corinne Day in the magazine "Face". At the time, it embodies the waif (wild, abandoned child). Abandoned by whom By what History, says Christian Salmon, as the generation that takes consciousness of itself after the fall of the Berlin wall. The story is finished. It is now up to each to invent his own history to make his life a novel on pain of falling into irrelevance. This means a work of counting, release, purification, including Kate Moss, who meets none of the codes, will be the expression. She knows to express a certain return to the natural, the truth to the crudeness of a world stripped of its signs.

It was not possible that this revolution does not affect the mode. Kate Moss, whose measurements do not meet the criteria of a Claudia Schiffer, will become the icon of a profound revolution in the history of the reports of the unit to the garment. Kate Moss is promoted in a fundamental revolution where the garment, now, is less to hide the body took the art of fashion designer that to demonstrate the truth of which consist and lives to between mean from chipés cloak here or there. Glamour gives grunge. Anna Wintour, the high priestess of "Vogue", and with it everything which is responsible for defending the standard will be pay dear to Kate Moss's transgressions: the presents (sorry) patient or offenders (associating it with the drug).

It will be the opportunity of new bounces. Kate Moss would glue the subjectivity required new capitalism: namely, be mobile, flexible, be able to constantly reinvent itself lives in for new performance. In this moment where, due to lack of major stories, can no longer register its history in the great where therefore constantly to concoct a story, fashion descended somehow from the podium. Clothing, marks, which must always be composed with more originality (of eccentricity) become the common language through which seek to express lives in lack of words. Fashion is more an expression of an ideal of beauty. I am rather Claudia Schiffer, and which, in my generation, cannot leave the nostalgia of the great stories, I am grateful to Christian Salmon of have so well describes me the condition of a generation that I say "cruel", and it boasts bluntly address the reality. Now, I see Kate Moss with other eyes.